Discover Nicaragua

One of best thing about visiting a place like Nicaragua is telling people that you did. They look at you as if they think you are spectacularly insane, and I was beginning to think they were right. Nicaragua, the largest country in Central America – about the size of New York State - boasts 9 volcanoes, 4 of them active, a history of political unrest, civil war, devastating earthquakes, and tsunamis. Now, I know that my sense of adventure sometimes overcomes just plain sense, but even I was a little apprehensive about this one. I was headed to a Travel Trade show in Managua, and all I could think about was how far I would be able to crawl on my belly and knees dodging stray bullets if that need should arise.

We flew low into the capital city of Managua and from the airplane window I could peer into the blue-green liquid center of a giant, dormant volcano crater. With views of stacked cumulus clouds, luminous green foothills, and hazy sunshine I felt like I was entering the Garden of Eden. If it is an Eden of sorts, it is certainly undiscovered – for now. Experts in the travel industry are touting Nicaragua as the next hot destination for investors and tourists seeking unspoiled natural beauty and adventure travel.

VOLCANOS
On our first adventure we visited Masaya volcano. I wandered into the information center, and met Jose, our guide. On the wall was a giant relief map of the world, with the center being Nicaragua. What was striking, other than the models of violently spewing volcanoes, were the lines drawing the tectonic plates that cover the earth. They all seemed to converge in and around Nicaragua. Jose assured us, with an odd display of pride, that these plates were responsible for earthquakes, tsunami, and volcanic activity in Nicaragua. Quickly adding that “Nicaragua is the safest country in all of Central America” with a broad grin.

We set off to discover the volcano on foot. Jose warned us to “stay on the path,” though at times the path was almost impossible to discern from the “not-so-much” path. He assured us, again with that giant grin, that “It is very dangerous to leave the path. You could break through the crust.”
“The crust of WHAT?” I gasped.
“The crust of earth over the boiling pools. It is very hot – nearly 3000 degrees” he proudly replied.
“So you’re telling me that in the course of my afternoon I could accidentally wander off the path, break through the earths crust, and fall into a boiling cauldron of hot magma – nearly 3000 degrees Fahrenheit?” I asked incredulously.

“Well, yes, you could, but it hardly ever happens” said Jose shaking his head.

“I see.” I replied, more than a little alarmed. “And, how often do visitors come up here and have a look around?”

“Oh,” he paused and looked at me with the barest hint of a twinkle in his eye “Hardly ever”.

Fortified with the uncertain news that I was either to be boiled in hot magma that afternoon, or not, we headed off to explore the volcano. We learned that in 1972, upon hearing threatening rumbles from inside, people from nearby village of Masaya went to the precipice and tossed a 6 month old baby into the volcano in order to quiet it (the volcano, not the baby). I wondered what it must be like to live in a place where symbols of the destructive power of nature are so close at hand. You would think that it would make the people guarded, vigilant, suspicious. You would be wrong.

Without exception people were unbelievably generous and welcoming. Carlos, whom we met at his restaurant Hippos in the capital city of Managua, treated us to stories, pictures of his family, food and drink. Vicente, our cab driver patiently endured my fractured Spanish, and showed us the sights as only a local could. He took us to a restaurant overlooking the crater lake Caterina, the market in Masaya, and the Artist Center of San Juan D’Orient. He patiently waited while we dined, played, and shopped, and charged us about $25 for the day!

The importance of family in this country cannot be overemphasized. No one ever asked me about my job, not once. But everyone asked about my children, their names, ages, interests. They wanted to know if we played baseball, the national pastime of Nicaragua. They were curious as to what Americans know about Nicaragua. They asked me to tell my friends that Nicaragua is a safe, friendly country, and encouraged me to come back with my family.

CULTURE
We visited the city of Granada, with its Spanish Colonial style architecture, gigantic, intricately carved doors, cobblestone streets, ornate columns, and fountains. Sitting at a very funky café/youth hostel called Che Cafe, we watched as a white horse-drawn carriage, overflowing with hot pink, yellow, and purple flowers transported a coffin from the church to the burial grounds. The family of mourners, all dressed in brilliant colors followed on foot, weeping, singing, and crying out in anguish. From the most elderly to the tiniest baby, all of the family made the mile journey to deliver their loved one to his final resting place. I was awestruck by their display of emotion and family unity.

You have to be a bit of an intrepid traveler to enjoy Nicaragua on your own. The hotel amenities can be sketchy (no hot water in summer) and the cab rides rival NASCAR simulators without the benefit of paved roads. It is a lovely, unspoiled country however, and an unbelievable bargain. Beautiful hotel rooms in Granada go for US $70 per night, and we had a gourmet, 8 course dinner complete with a nice French Bordeaux for about US $20.

Armed guerillas, boiling hot lava, earthquakes and tsunamis? Turns out the most danger I encountered was a well-deserved hangover from some concoction called Caballo del Rio or Riverhorse Punch. I’m not sure what it was made from, but I wouldn’t have been surprised to wake up wearing spurs and a six-shooter.

Word Count 1017
Julene Nolan
jules@julesnolan.com